Absinthe: A Scandalous Past and Exciting Future

Absinthe: A Scandalous Past and Exciting Future

Absinthe. The name alone conjures glamorous visions of bohemian Paris, with artists holding court in smoky cafés and the intoxicating allure of the Belle Époque. Once hailed as the muse of poets, painters and visionaries, this mysterious, emerald-hued spirit lovingly nicknamed ‘the Green Fairy’ has a history as dramatic and colourful as its most famous fans. It was banned across the globe for a century but finally, we are seeing its renaissance. And it was worth the wait. 

In its heyday, this herbaceous, green spirit was iconic. Ernest Hemingway waxed lyrical about its ‘tongue-numbing, brain warming, idea changing liquid alchemy,’ while artists like Vincent van Gogh immortalised it on canvas. Invented in Switzerland in the late 1700s, absinthe quickly became the French drink of choice, with consumption skyrocketing so quickly that the years before the First World War were dubbed ‘les années vertes’: ‘the green years.’ But this love affair with absinthe came to an abrupt end. A growing panic about its supposed hallucinogenic effects, coupled with dubious scientific claims and a few high profile, artistic ‘mishaps’ meant that by the 1910s, absinthe was banned across Europe and the U.S. 

Absinthe Myths Busted

At its heart, the original Swiss style of absinthe is a distilled, high alcohol, unsweetened botanical spirit. It’s flavoured with a complex blend of herbs, the most notable being the ‘holy trinity’ of green anise, fennel and wormwood (Artemisia absinthium), which must all be present - much like juniper must be key in gin. The green tinge should be natural, coming from the chlorophyll in herbs used and traditionally, the spirit would ‘louche’, i.e. go cloudy, when water is added. The myth that absinthe causes hallucinations comes from the fact that there is a trace of a substance called ‘thujone’ in wormwood which, in large quantities, could be considered psychoactive. The truth is, any quantity actually present in absinthe would be negligible. After all, wormwood was also a key ingredient in Vermouth, whose very name translates directly to ‘wormwood’ via the German ‘Wermut’. 

Originally written for The Daily Mail March 2025

It’s only recently, in the last ten years or so, that the absinthe ban has been officially lifted worldwide, with regulations in place ensuring that the production process is legit. Modern distillers who have been biding their time, are quickly embracing innovation, adding regional herbs, rare spices and even barrel-aging techniques to craft exciting new expressions. These absinthes are not just building on the past but elevating it, creating new drinks that are as dynamic as they are delicious. Absinthe is back. And it’s going to be big! 

For those keen to taste a wide range of absinthes, try cocktails or have the full absinthe fountain experience, there are various well-stocked bars in the UK now. None are more passionate however than the Absinthe Parlour at home of the The Last Tuesday Society in East London. Owned and run by the owners of Devil’s Botany - the UK's first absinthe distillery, this is where you’ll get a masterclass with your tipple. Find it at 11 Mare St, London E8 4RP.

The Absintini Cocktail

60ml Absinthe

10ml Dry Vermouth

Lemon peel for garnish 

Method: This elegant, creamy Martini is perfect for those just starting out with the spirit. I use Devils Botany London Absinthe as it’s clear, doesn't cloud and has a lighter ABV. Simply combine the Absinthe with the Dry Vermouth in a mixing jar with ice. Stir for one minute and serve in a chilled Martini glass with a lemon twist.

Find more Absinthe cocktail recipes in the book “Spirits of the Otherworld” by Alison Crawbuck and Rhys Everett.

FIVE ABSINTHES TO TRY

Original Swiss Style

Jade 1898 Absinthe, 65% ABV, 20cl, £29.50 thewhiskyexchange.com

This will give you a feel for how absinthe was originally made in its Swiss motherland. ‘Reverse engineered’ from a 19th century bottle, this is a classic, super strong ‘Verte Suisse’ style: pale gold-green, louching to milky green with water to give a full-bodied drink with subtle spice, fennel, aniseed and wormwood flavours 

Modern London Libation 

Devil’s Botany London Absinthe, 45% ABV, 70cl, £38 Threshers & Devilsbotany.com

The first of its kind and perfect for absinthe newbies, Devil’s Botany have created a fresher, more sippable spirit that doesn’t cloud when diluted. This makes a beautiful twist on a Martini (see recipe above) and is a great substitute for vodka or gin in cocktails. 

New American Classic

St. George Absinthe Verte, 60% ABV, 20cl, £24.95 Master of Malt

This new Californian classic was the first legal American absinthe released after the ban. It’s dark and different; a flavoursome style, made by infusing brandy with star anise, wormwood and fennel, then distilling it. A second infusion gives an intriguing herbal hit of mint, tarragon, basil, lemon balm and more.

Complex French

Combier L'Entêté Absinthe Supérieure, 62% ABV, 70cl, £60.74 Master of Malt

A classic, French absinthe with a pale, natural green hue made in a modern style. With its particularly fragrant nose of fennel and aniseed, a slight bitterness on the palate and a silky texture, this is exceptionally elegant and complex when diluted. 

Different & Delicious

Devil’s Botany Chocolate Absinthe Liqueur, 24% ABV, 70cl, £26.75, The Whisky Exchange

This quirky and delicious liqueur is neither too sweet nor too strong and makes a brilliant addition to cocktails - or even just sipped chilled over ice for a perfect, after dinner hit! A blend of London absinthe with Ecuadorian cacao, its bittersweet and floral with subtle, exotic spices.