A Luminous Location in Provence: L‘Art de vivre at La Verrière, Wine Escape

A Luminous Location in Provence:

L‘Art de vivre at La Verrière, Wine Escape

What is l’art de vivre?

l’Art de vivre, translated literally, means ‘the art of living’ and the French have their own special version of it (as opposed to the ancient pillars on which Flock & Hive was founded). To the French, this short phrase encapsulates life’s little pleasures; those small details that make life a bit sweeter. These could be the finer, more luxurious things in life but also, the littlest things from the scent of a lavender garden in the sun, white roses climbing heavy stone walls, bread still warm from the oven, a brand new notebook, proper linen tablecloths... I’m always on the hunt for a place to go where all these elements combine and am never surprised when it's wine that leads me to find them. 

The ultimate wine escape à la française: La Verrière

On the borders of the Rhône Valley and Provence in the South of France, high up in the Dentelles de Montmirail, lies an old priory from the middle ages where grapes have always been grown. It took a labour of love to restore the property and the owners, Nicole and Xavier Rolet, found the terroir there to have enormous potential for fine wine. They named the domaine ‘La Verrière’ after discovering that a previous owner, Aliot de Montvin was licensed to blow glass there in 1497 and over time, built it into the ultimate getaway-from-it-all location to experience the true ‘art de vivre’.

La Verrière is an isolated haven high in the hills, ringed by pine and oak forests with panoramas over the Drôme. An infinity pool cascades into vineyards below while inside, you can indulge in jacuzzi and spa treatments, cooking classes, wine tastings and take your pick from numerous pretty locations to eat from a medieval patio with fragrant herb garden, a roof terrace with panoramic views or picnics in a forest clearing. With its all weather tennis court and traditional, pétanque area, it’s the kind of Provençal idyll you only dream about seeing in movies. There is one element that is the icing on the cake for any hedonist, however: the domaine’s own range of utterly delicious, very special wines.

Chêne Bleu wines from the La Verrière estate

Named after their eye-catching, blue oak tree that stands proud on the estate, (chêne bleu means ‘blue oak’), this range of ‘couture’ wines as the Rolets describe them, reflect their philosophy of hand craftsmanship and sustainable practices. Handpicked grapes from old vines at low yields grown on atypical soils, ensure an exceptional quality that shines though in every wine in the range. The natural setting at a high altitude, surrounded by nature, makes biodynamic practices easy to maintain too - something the world is in desperate need of right now. The Rolets say:

“We welcome a flock of sheep over winter in the vineyards to provide weed-control as well as natural fertilizer.  It is remarkable to see the variety of insects, birds and animals that have returned since we eliminated chemicals. We continue to work to reduce and offset our carbon footprint, to grow our commitment to recycling and to improve our understanding of the functioning of the spectacular natural environment that surrounds us.”

The Range

Two flagship red wines sit at the top of the tree at Chêne Bleu, each extolling the virtues of the key red grapes of the area: Grenache and Syrah. Abélard and Héloïse, as they are poetically called, both showcase glorious, concentrated aromas and flavours and a sumptuous, velvety textures, yet maintain a freshness and cool minerality thanks to the high altitude growing and the geology of the area. 

Reds

Abélard is the more powerful, aromatic red, a rich blend of Grenache with a splash of Syrah. Blueberry-scented, spicy and soft.

Héloïse is Syrah-based with a splash of Grenache and Viognier giving a more restrained, elegant wine; silky and perfumed with white blossom, violets and spice.

Rosé

Le Rosé is a blend of Syrah and Grenache. Pale and dry, it has a substantial texture and subtle flavours of crisp, red fruit and citrus.

Whites

Aliot is a rich, creamy, round and perfumed white with some oak aging. It’s a blend of the traditional Rhône varieties: Roussanne, Grenache blanc, Marsanne and a splash of Viognier.

Viognier as stated, is made with 100% Viognier and is a perfect example of this grape with its weighty texture, apricot notes and floral nose. 

La Verrière is open for drop in wine tastings or booked tasting classes and cooking courses. You can eat there and stay here for a couple for nights or even hire the whole house with a private chef for a special celebration. There are four luxury suites, three luxury rooms and the house can accommodate up to seventeen guests. 

For more information on La Verrière and their Chêne Bleu wines, go to laverriere.com and chenebleu.com.